Friday, November 7, 2008

JAR and JAP... a memorable moment for Jeanine Anne Payer

This camellia carving was inspired by the doorknob of the JAR store in Paris. I carved it from wax as an excercise years ago and this week I came upon it in my studio. As I cleaned it up with my chasing tools I thought back on my extraordinary experience at JAR.


This is one of the most treasured books on my shelf.

In the early 2000’s I got a chance to peek through the JAR book that went with his London Exhibition, but didn’t know anything about the man, the cult, the myth or the exclusivity.

It was difficult to even get the address for the store and I circled the block four or five times before finding myself standing with a friend as we stared at a tiny storefront virtually hidden in a corridor just off the Place VendĂ´me in Paris. The sign was almost invisible and it was private and intimidating at the same time. We saw a man in a black suit walk up to the door and pull the gilded stamen in the center of an exquisite bronze camellia flower and realized it was actually the doorbell. When the elegant gentleman opened the door he saw us standing there and invited us over. I tried to explain in my broken French that I was inspired by what I had read about JAR in an article in the New York Times and really wanted to see things for myself... I soon realized everything was done by appointment only and probably only for royalty so I just wanted to excuse myself and get out of that corridor fast.




























He asked us to wait a moment, disappeared and then came back and invited us in. At this point I didn’t know what to do or how to get out of the situation! Obviously I am not a potential customer! Help!! I ended up in this tiny dramatically lit room among coral objet d’art blushing a lovely shade of beet red. I remember the walls were covered in mauve suede. Sounds awful but believe me, it was terribly chic. The man came back and informed us that JAR was not granting interviews but thank you anyway. He thought I said I was a writer for the New York Times and that is why he invited us in. He explained to us that they have to be very careful who they let in because they get copied and then he asked me if I was connected in any way to the world of jewelry…..I just wanted to leave. I told him I was a jewelry designer myself but from another planet in another solar system and he still invited me in even though at this point I wanted out because the whole affair was so nerve wracking. Somehow he invited me into the second tiny room and had us wait while he disappeared again. We nervously perched at our seats at a small elegant table while he brought out about 5 different pieces for us to see one after another.

An Iris brooch in sapphires and diamonds: silver and gold, 2000

It takes 6 months to a year to complete a single piece. It was a very hushed and sacred affair. He said he could show them to us since they were already published in the book that went with the London exhibition.





























The lilac box in Jasper, garnets, and enamel; bronze, 2002

We were mesmerized at what we saw. The gentleman treated the work with such sensitivity and reverence as he told the story behind each one.

The zebra brooch, in banded agate and diamonds; silver and gold, 1987

When it was finally time to go he told us about the JAR perfume store around the corner off Rue St. Honore. He only makes 7 scents and that they are not for everyone, and in fact, some people absolutely hate them; or so he clandestinely told us... When we finally got out of there my nerves were shot. I knew I had just been through something amazing, but it took me a while to realize that I had actually just been allowed into the private atelier of the man considered to be the Fabergé of our time.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Big Day








Kazu, Megan, Janine B. and Ari did the right thing this morning. The rest of us are going after work








except for Darby who did an absentee ballot. She is feeling very optimistic---which is great because she literally runs the show around here.

Janine B. is in charge of our website. She said it was an accident that her look color coordinated with the sticker. Chic 24/7.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Structured Unstructured Time

I spoke to some students up at the Revere Academy a couple of weeks ago and they asked some good questions about my creative process. I will share some of what I told them.

secret weapon: the timer.

I use my timer to help balance creative/imaginative time with business/nuts-and-bolts. I set it for an hour or sometimes even just 20 minutes and I know if I can just get through this small increment of time I can get started. Getting my head out of the daily worries and all the other tasks that constantly demand my attention, sometimes feels impossible. The timer helps me break the cycle of procrastination and also it reminds me to take a quick break. I also change the immediate environment with music, flowers and I like to change the scent of my studio. I like to use burning papers from Santa Maria Novella. The timer helps me enter into a state of flow taking me to a place where time doesn't exist. When the little alarm goes off I am usually surprised by how far along I have gotten. At this point I can put the timer away; I am over the hump and into my work.

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Morning walks with Will



During our walks up the Pemberton Steps, Will and I hone in on tree and pole textures, since they are easy for William to reach out and touch from the carrier on my back. He gets his dad and I up early....

Jeff and Will at 6 a.m.

Pemberton Steps

Al's Garden is around the corner from my house. It is very 'Finster'.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Curtis Jere in the kitchen and Studio

My tiny kitchen is going to be featured in a Japanese book! They are spotlighting the kitchens of artists, designers and store owners from the Bay Area. My friends Rae Dunn and Bradley Burch have their kitchens included as well.

I have these pop art Curtis Jere wall sculptures from the 60's and 70's hanging in my kitchen. The missing oversized 'ladle' from the series escaped me on eBay recently. I have no cupboards so the kitchen is a triumph of form over function, and never easy to navigate. The good news is that it is the perfect back-drop for my obsession...

My first C. Jere was purchased for the studio. The black birds got a mixed reaction from my crew.

This was soon to follow...
I have stopped questioning the obsession. This one is in my design room.

Monday, October 13, 2008

My fingers emit sparks of fire with expectation of my future labours. -Blake

Rivera ring, August 08, sans engraving

When I started engraving words into jewelry I was in my early 20's. I have been challenged and stretched in following this thread for all this time. Now I am curious to turn the creative page and see what I will make in my early 40's as a new mother and with the good fortune to have supportive followers who have been so positive the entire time I have been designing and putting myself out there. It has long been known that risk is essential to creativity, without risk, the danger of repetition robs the work of new, fresh ideas. I think these times we are living in demand new ideas, new ways of looking at things. I hope my work inspires those who wear it, and I am ready to feel that same inspiration of the new as an artist.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Sonja S. on Zine by Janet

Engraver, in-house photographer, and all around JPI Maven, Janet Kozawa makes this monthy zine in her spare time. We’re super impressed.

-Sonja S.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Angie and Joe Kastner

Angie and Joe chose the Aulaire and the Marina as their wedding bands and were married in Santa Barbara on July 12th, 2008. We were overjoyed when Angie forwarded pictures from their album, including a special shot of their rings.

Accent on Design

Kazu, Jeanine, and Julia are photographed in the “wholesale atelier” at the Accent on Design show in New York.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Drawings from the Studio

I did these using my favorite space pen at the Met.

"God is in the details." -Mies Van Der Rohe

This is me putting the finishing touches on the gold ball inlay that I have incorporated into many of the new pieces for August. The red pitch is heated until soft and the pieces are melted into it. Once it cools the pitch is hard creating a supportive background for working the metal.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Notes from JP: Designs in Progress

The three rings on the left are guache painted wax models that I use as part of my design process. The one with the yellow center is a small version of the Crete ring. This part is actually sort of playful, and I allow myself to experiment and try out new ideas based on what is currently interesting and inspiring to me. You will notice along with the drawings and poetry on the cork board, there is a post card with a photo of one of San Francisco artist Ruth Asawa's woven wire sculptures that hang in the de Young Museum. Ruth is a family friend, and her life and work are an inspiration to me.


Elvedina wearing Elvedina

Elvedina is pictured here wearing the Elvedina necklace. She’s been with Jeanine Payer Studios since 1999. Elvedina specializes in leatherwork as well as metalsmithing and is one of the hottest smiths on the block.

Congratulations to Stefane and Remi....

We recently had the pleasure of meeting Stefane and Remi who came all the way from France to pick up their custom engraved weddings bands in our retail store. They were married on June 21st, 2008. Congratulations to you both!

Sheryl Crow at Hard Rock Calling

Sheryl Crow is seen wearing the Bennett ring at Hard Rock Calling in London. The Police, Eric Clapton and The Bangles also performed.