Elvedina, thank you for ten years of hard work, love, sweat and tears.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
The Wolfgang has been one of our most popular designs ever since (Ellen DeGeneres even has hers in 18k.) I have made a lot of mistakes and unpopular pieces in order to find the one with the perfect pitch.
In 1989 I had just discovered the work of French artist Christian Boltanski and his use of faces, mainly children in reverential and church-like settings. Though his work has a darkness, this ouvre inspired me to want to use photographs in my work. Jewelry became a new extension of my creative expression.
I incorporated miniature nails (from the train store), tiny grey feathers, insect wings and locks of my own hair. Looking back I think I was rebelling against the upbeat, cheerful art jewelry I was seeing in museum stores and boutiques. These pieces were highly personal.
The Wink necklace has been in our collection for nearly 14 years.
Over time the centerpiece became a singular tiny child's image from the turn of the century. I would say it represented potential and hopefulness, a good luck charm similar to a medal with a saint's image. The addition of Rilke poetry added a depth combined with the mysterious, sweet image.
Gold leaf gave the photos an almost religious aura.
A cast branch from a miniature rose bush became a looking glass about 15 years ago. One has to be very careful when picking it up to avoid the sharp thorns and I have noticed that this creates a tension when using it to read. I have always thought that reading the poems from our pieces cause a slowing down necessary to really hear the words.
The Ildiko necklace from the 20th Anniversary Collection was inspired by this piece after one of our dear customers, Mona Helen, asked me to make a magnifying glass she could wear.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Just now while listening to the Vertigo soundtrack I managed to knock over a few bins from my shelf. 4 leather bracelets tumbled out and landed in front of me right at the music's crescendo. I was giddy, you see, because I do not really remember making them. It was way back when we were first playing around with leather...and these are so now and wow. The Gods of Bijoux are telling me I must bring back the large leather bangle with a Wienar Werkstatte twist and I should listen.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
The new jewelry book just arrived in the studio. Who's brilliant idea was it to use metal filings as the background? And the pieces of mine that Judy Collinson, Barneys GMM, hand picked are complete opposites. I would never have put them next to each other...and would never have mussed up the chains like that either--very fresh.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
This book was designed in 1996 after having made several very detailed and whimsical book necklaces and the words inspired the design completely. I engraved so many of these over the years. It talks about a warrior passing through adversity and I appreciate that the warrior is referred to as 'she'.
(translated by Stephen Mitchell)
Friday, October 9, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
3000 B.C. gold, agate, carnelian, jasper and marble.
From the book Treasures from the Royal Tombs of Ur. In '98 I went to this show in NY at the Morgan Library and now I am giong back and really looking at the pieces with fresh eyes. This piece in particular is so modern feeling that it is stiking. They used a great deal of lapis with gold and carnelian which I have never been a huge fan of until now.
Monday, October 5, 2009
This morning Darby came to my design studio and held out her hand with a surprise inside. "I don't know what this is but I thought you would like it!" Right away I knew it was an antique money clip with my son's name so beautifully engraved on the front. I just love it.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
After being away for two years to take care of her two young girls, Bella and her upbeat attitude, are back at Jeanine Payer. Her favorite piece is the Edmond. She enjoys the process the most, beginning with the cleaning of the casting, ending with soldering the jumprings and antiquing them. She brings the piece to its final stage for the engravers.
Today she is working on the Billie necklace and I caught her soldering one of the jumprings to the chain. She is currently eyeing the Fabienne two-tone earrings which she plans to get for herself as her next piece. Bella is famous around here for her keen eye for both antiquing the poetry and hand-polishing.