Flotsam

Working From Home

not glamorous...



...makes me feel like Miss Havisham. It is a bit nutty in my dining room/playroom/workroom but it works.

Bravo!

I am always taken aback by the creativity of Federico De Vera, especially at the holidays. This years 'card' came in an unassuming manila envelope. It is a rubber tree leaf with an image pressed into it of a Christmas tree, roman numerals and a tiny 'De Vera'---an example of Federico's unique ability to give us a surprising lens to view his idea of beauty.

We Are Here

The landmark Phelan Building was built before the 1906 earthquake and then rebuilt twice its original size after burning to the ground. Each suite has gas and water and lends itself to the business of making jewelry, dentistry, hair salons, etc. It was the jewelry hub in its day. Although Union Square is an unlikely place to be manufacturing jewelry, we have been doing exactly that for 17 years. It can be challenging at times, the studios are connected like a rabbit warren and we have them scattered over the 5th floor, but it works somehow and I kind of love it. Being here we are connected to a long history. Many stone cutters, setters, and all sorts of jewelry craftspeople are our neighbors-- something we almost take for granted. I go next door to Hong, the gemcutter. He has been in the building for 27 years. Having our store within the same building also creates a synergy between studio and customer. It may sound corny but I always loved how Hermes has workshops above their store in Paris. A romanitic idea, but also good business to keep everything close where quality is assured and communication flows easily. For us, making small, intimate pieces that say so much in such a tiny scale, it all makes perfect sense.

Inspiration

The small black and white book in front is from one of my favorite stores on earth, 10 Corso Como, in Milan.

I never feel alone or without inspiration close at hand with books around. Books are one of the expenses I don't feel guilty about. They are as important as hammers or torches in my world.

Rae's Bracelets

Rae Dunn, the ceramicist/artist, and one of my best girlfriends, has worn her bracelets for years along with her Jill Platner. Rae and I are working together on a little surprise...

Diamond Slice

Avalon Giveaway Winner (by Janine B.)

Congratulations to Eva Archer Smith, the lucky winner of our Avalon necklace giveaway. When notified, she gasped, "I'm at the airport or I'd be screaming!" A Houston resident and a long time collector of Jeanine Payer (her first pieces were a pinky ring and earrings purchased nearly 20 years ago), Eva entered the giveaway by purchasing the Giovanni ring to replace her wedding ring.

-Janine B.

Kazu In The Studio

I always love how Kazu wears her 18k and silver Wyatt with her chunky watch--and somehow it never seems to get scratched even though I think she wears the combo every day.

All Hail the Queen

Elvedina, thank you for ten years of hard work, love, sweat and tears.

The Wolfgang Ring

I made an interpretation of a book necklace with the writing on the edges of the page back in 1995. It ended up looking like a rolodex. It was not a 'commercial success' but I really liked it. One day while playing around I tried the idea in a ring. It was bold--it reminded me of a movable Stonehenge!



The Wolfgang has been one of our most popular designs ever since (Ellen DeGeneres even has hers in 18k.) I have made a lot of mistakes and unpopular pieces in order to find the one with the perfect pitch.

Keep not standing

fixed and rooted.

Briskly venture,

briskly roam.

-Goethe

Evolution of Photo Pieces

In 1989 I had just discovered the work of French artist Christian Boltanski and his use of faces, mainly children in reverential and church-like settings. Though his work has a darkness, this ouvre inspired me to want to use photographs in my work. Jewelry became a new extension of my creative expression.

I incorporated miniature nails (from the train store), tiny grey feathers, insect wings and locks of my own hair. Looking back I think I was rebelling against the upbeat, cheerful art jewelry I was seeing in museum stores and boutiques. These pieces were highly personal.




The Wink necklace has been in our collection for nearly 14 years.

Over time the centerpiece became a singular tiny child's image from the turn of the century. I would say it represented potential and hopefulness, a good luck charm similar to a medal with a saint's image. The addition of Rilke poetry added a depth combined with the mysterious, sweet image.

Gold leaf gave the photos an almost religious aura.

My current picture pieces have evolved and are now exclusively designed to feature custom photos, my own pictures of William and those of clients. They have always been a quiet side to my main collection but now they have become much more important to me. They are personal amulets that hold the image in a point in time. My Fuentes holds Will exactly at age 9 months-- documenting a moment. The picture from childhood captures a time of pure potential and joy--it captures our feelings as well. This time-capsule from father to the mother, friend to friend, or to yourself holds a piece of imagination and of inspiration....

Through The Looking Glass

A cast branch from a miniature rose bush became a looking glass about 15 years ago. One has to be very careful when picking it up to avoid the sharp thorns and I have noticed that this creates a tension when using it to read. I have always thought that reading the poems from our pieces cause a slowing down necessary to really hear the words.



The Ildiko necklace from the 20th Anniversary Collection was inspired by this piece after one of our dear customers, Mona Helen, asked me to make a magnifying glass she could wear.